White spot ?

Angel's, Discus, Oscars, Rams, Malawi etc.
Maddie
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Sorry always get trite and trate wrong way round
With the ph being under 7 isn’t the ammonia going to be partly ammonium and less toxic. Also meant to ask is 6.6 too low ? Is so what do I do ? Got coral sand in other 2 tanks and they sit steady at 7.2-7.6 but thought it needed to be lower in this tank so got super fine sand and big wood
Maddie
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Bog wood
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black ghost
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The ammonia is hardly toxic at all below pH 7. But there’s still a small percentage of it that is toxic, which the fish will feel. It’s not serious but it’s enough to keep their immune systems down.

pH 6.6 is dangerous. You’re right on the limit of biological filtration, and will be why you’re struggling with ammonia and nitrite. I would increase it nearer to 7 to ensure your filter doesn’t die. If the pH is dropping, a little coral gravel will help maintain the KH.
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plankton
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black ghost wrote: Sat Jan 22, 2022 14:05 pm The ammonia is hardly toxic at all below pH 7. But there’s still a small percentage of it that is toxic, which the fish will feel. It’s not serious but it’s enough to keep their immune systems down.

pH 6.6 is dangerous. You’re right on the limit of biological filtration, and will be why you’re struggling with ammonia and nitrite. I would increase it nearer to 7 to ensure your filter doesn’t die. If the pH is dropping, a little coral gravel will help maintain the KH.
I thought the "munchers" were different at lower acidities, I mean, haven't a lot of us kept fish at lower ph, especially the cory and gourami owners without parameter problems? ;)
However that doesn't mean that they won't have had time to develop anyway because of the stocking levels.
:)
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black ghost
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Biological filtration slows at about 6.5 and stops completely about 6. Below that there is none, just a build up of ‘harmless’ ammonium. If it’s above 6 you’re on very slow filtration. True blackwater keepers don’t/can’t use filters.
Last edited by black ghost on Sun Jan 23, 2022 16:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Maddie
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I did a 40-50% water change. Treat the water accordingly. I used Stability as still within the 7 days and also Prime which I added a little extra.

I have noticed that those little white spots have gone/or are going from the fish and they seem pretty happy and swimming about lovely and eating well. I wonder if I just need to keep doing the water changes regularly and keep a very close watchful eye on things. How regular is too regular to change water ? I read somewhere that if fish get stressed they can get little spots but is doesn't necessarily mean it is whitespot and once the stress level goes down (by removing whatever was causing the stress I guess) the spots go. I am hoping this is the case with mine as def less spots than yesterday.

Got a new pump and 10 metres of inch hosing and the water change today was easy peasy. If you put the water treatments into the tank after you have filled it back up am I right in thinking the dose is the amount for the whole tank and not just the amount of water you've replaced ?

Any views on putting aquarium salt into the tank ? Raising the temperature ?
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fr499y
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Yes if you dose the tank and fill up from hose/tap then treat for the whole tank volume, if you are treating the water before it hits the tank, ie buckets/bottles, then you’d treat the amount you are changing 🙂
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black ghost
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Maddie wrote: Sun Jan 23, 2022 15:14 pm How regular is too regular to change water ?
As long as the water is ‘good’ (similar parameters, temperature, dechlorinated, no toxins) there’s no such thing as too much. Every water change is beneficial, even if you do loads. In a river they get a 100% change every second.

You’re right about the spots. Fish with fully functioning immune systems cannot get whitespot. And you're not likely to treat it successfully while the stressor is still there. The treatments need the immune system to work with them. But remove the stress and the immune system kicks in, and the spots will go. A few spots are nothing to worry about (as long as the fish isn’t stressed).

I’m a firm believer that fish that have evolved in freshwater should not have salt added to he water. They’re not designed for it, and it will prevent little indicators, like spots, that tell you when something’s not quite right.

What is the temperature? Best to be not too high up the fishes tolerance ranges.
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Usually 26-27 degrees
Going to do water changes every 2 days I think and check parameters every morning
I’m less concerned about the spots today
Honestly thank you all for all the advice
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plankton
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Don't use salt unless it's absolutely necessary - it can cause long-term problems.
To boost the immune systems you can crush a clove of garlic (well, a third of a clove per tank) into the tank. Wait 10 minutes after crushing before adding to the tank as this will release the vitamins etc. that help with that. They will eat it and, even if they don't, the "juice" will be in the water.
I do this every 4-6 months (when I remember) as a preventive.
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